Why Corsica is still the Mediterranean’s most elegant island

With dazzling views, a slow pace of life and rich history, this French outpost is still a lesser-known joy – and best explored by cruise

With only 20 of us on the coach, and no other cars passing through the sleepy hill village of Evisa, I was puzzled that it was taking so long for my fellow passengers to disembark. When I reached the door, all became clear: a large donkey, happily basking in the early-autumn afternoon sun, was blocking the footpath. He had paused to have his long ears stroked by these unexpected admirers, and then, when he was good and ready, he ambled off.
“In the evening, he’ll go back to the farm and the person that owns him,” said our guide, Paul. “Cows, sheep and goats come and go as they please here.” 
We had been on Corsica only two days, but already this made complete sense. It had been clear from the moment we set foot on the Mediterranean’s fourth-largest island that, here, life moves at a far slower pace – from the people right down to the cattle, which it is perfectly normal to find catching rays on Barcaggio beach at Cap Corse, the digit-like 25-mile promontory on the northern tip of the island.
The road now donkey-less, our little group crossed to the café terrace on the other side, where I sat with a £3 local beer, and drank in views of dense forests of chestnut trees and pines, and jagged granite mountain peaks beyond. Soon we would return to our ship, CroisiEurope’s compact 130-passenger La Belle des Océans, docked in the island’s capital, Ajaccio (the birthplace of Corsica’s most famous son, Napoleon Bonaparte); but for now, there was no hurry. While larger cruise vessels make only fleeting stops here, this nimble ship delves far deeper into Corsica’s history and culture, circumnavigating the entire island on an immersive week-long itinerary.
And what a history it is. Located 105 miles from the south-eastern French coast – where our journey began, in Nice – and 56 miles from Italy, Corsica’s illustrious past dates from antiquity. Waves of attackers and conflicts have seen it variously ruled by the Romans, Saracens and the Republic of Genoa, to name just a few. It even spent a brief two years as an Anglo-Corsican kingdom, beginning in 1794 with the the siege of Calvi, during which Lord Nelson lost the sight in his right eye (the loss of his arm would come three years later, at the Battle of Santa Cruz in Tenerife). 
But, for all these invasions, the island has successfully kept one cohort well at bay: tourists – British ones in particular, who still make up only 10 per cent of Corsica’s annual visitor numbers. With limited direct flights from the UK, it’s still reasonably tricky for British holidaymakers to fly here, and – thanks to a mountainous interior and steep, snaking coastal roads – to get around. A cruise, however, makes for a wonderful – and practical – solution.
Our anticlockwise journey began with a night docked in Ajaccio, before continuing on to various small ports, where we’d moor alongside local fishing boats and a smattering of swanky superyachts. An abundance of the latter resulted in a spectacular arrival in Corsica’s oldest town, Bonifacio, where our captain decided it was too busy to moor in the marina and instead dropped anchor in the bay. As we were ferried ashore by tiny tender, the limestone peninsula soared ahead of us, topped by an imposing medieval citadel and sun-bleached houses perched precariously on its edge.
On shore, we were borne to the foot of King Aragon’s staircase, 187 vertiginous steps carved into the cliffs and plunging into the sea, once used to carry water to the town. Mercifully, a land train was waiting to take us to the top, where we gazed out across the cerulean blue water merging into the cloudless sky, and then wandered slowly back down through the labyrinth of winding streets.
The island has a population of just 350,000, and wherever we went our guide, Paul – Corsican-born and bred – would meet people he knew. One day, after a period of free time in Bonifacio, I bumped into him near the marina and we strolled back to the tender together, our walk peppered with greetings from locals. The owner of waterfront restaurant La Caravelle even came out and insisted we stop for a glass of champagne – on the house. 
His connection to the destination and its people, and his encyclopedic knowledge of his home, allowed us a wonderful window into island life, and a personal context for our excursions to lesser-known towns, villages and natural wonders. These could be booked in advance, but also onboard, allowing for a more spontaneous itinerary – exploring when the mood struck (visiting, for example, the dreamlike marine landscape of Unesco-listed Calanques de Piana, granite rock formations formed by ancient volcanic activity), or opting instead for a day of lounging by the ship’s small pool, or a stroll into town for a coffee or cocktail at a waterside bar.
My fellow passengers were a cosmopolitan bunch, and life onboard was relaxed and convivial, conversation flowing easily over leisurely French-influenced meals – some out on deck – accompanied by cocktails and wines, mostly Corsican, all included in the fare.  
Afterwards we would head to the lounge for some gentle musical entertainment and a nightcap, before returning to our cabins, where a smart news sheet would be waiting on the bed, detailing the next day’s programme and activities.
It was the perfect way to explore what must surely still be one of the Mediterranean’s best-kept secrets – but one that, like me, you might struggle to keep to yourself.
Jeannine Williamson was a guest of CroisiEurope, which has a seven-night all-inclusive Corsica cruise from £2,718 per person, including British Airways flights from Heathrow and transfers. Round-trip from Nice, calling at Ajaccio, Bonifacio, Porto Vecchio, Bastia and L’Ile Rousse. Individual excursions from around £16 for a local liqueur tasting, to around £175 for a full day visiting the calanques and Porto. Departs July 4 2025 (01756 691269).